Things are a changin. Yep. Saudi is opening up. Nope. I don't mean they've decided to go liberal and close down their mosques, allow drag-racing or start opening up bars and brothels. No. No. No. It is STILL Saudi. There are still so many things you can't do. So many taboos and limitations -- especially if you're a woman. And Yet -
It is more popular than ever. Why?
Because for one it is safer than ever. That's right. It was just a few short years ago - as early as 2003 - that many of the westerners there kept (illegal;) firearms on their person and in there homes on the guarded compounds. Remember the Compound bombings? And the movie made about them : The Kingdom.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riyadh_compound_bombings
For those not familiar with Saudi Arabia, it was a tacit agreement at high levels struck years ago between the country with the largest military in the world and the one with the largest oil reserves on the planet. Protection for Oil. It was also at this time, that the Saudi's began the long process of digging out of the dark ages.
They welcomed Western expertise, know-how and efficiency. What they wanted to shield themselves and their population from was the evil influence of the unwashed KAFIR. The Arabic for Infidel or one who doesn't believe in Islam.
The solution? Guarded Compounds. Very much like prisons on the outside. Like a piece of suburbia on the inside. This kept the Kafir tucked away where they wouldn't poison the local population with their alcohol, lewdness and lascivious lifestyle of Sodom.
It suited the Westerns too since not only could their safety be secured, but their was a little oasis of Western freedom and modern facilities which simply didn't exist on the outside.
But two major changes have taken place.
1. The security situation has vastly improved and,
2. The Saudis are on a major building binge.
The security situation has improved ---due to the efforts and policies put in place by His Majesty, The Guardian of the Two Holy Mosques (I'm always amused by the official title the King goes by....) --- to such an extent that many companies, like Vinnell Corp., have eliminated special allowances for danger - also known as Danger Pay - altogether.
And if you think there are a lot of cranes in China - per capita, Saudi may have the most on planet earth.
They are literally building WHOLE cities out of nothing. Where nothing but sand existed just a few short years ago, today you'll see cities rising up --literally-- out of the sand. And immense, gargantuan university campuses are under construction as well.
The building boom is on a scale almost unimaginable.
Those two things and hard times back in the West have begun bringing many many new workers to Saudi of late.
And as a result of that famous Law of Supply and Demand, more and more companies are beginning to look at the bottom line with a more squinted eye. And cutting back.
As there are more people than ever who are discovering the delicious tax free earnings available in the desert kingdom, companies don't have to offer as much as in times past. Fewer and fewer are willing to pay the generous expat packages of yesteryear. Case in point, school fees for the children. Gone. Compound housing? Companies are cutting back, reducing allowances and in many cases outright saying no - especially to those at the lower ends of the food chain.
So it's a mixed bag. It is easier to live in than ever before. And for people in construction and telecommunications there has never been more opportunity. But for those in the less glamourous fields or where demand is falling off, pay and conditions are deteriorating rapidly.
ESL is one great example. It is really opening up - at the low end. Those great jobs you heard about in the past. They are disappearing faster than a footprint in the sand during a sandstorm.
The Good News: There are more and more opportunities for people who have little experience and few credentials in the field. Most companies across the board are still asking for 5-10 years experience and superior credentials - in all fields.
But in ESL, there are more and more places now willing to take someone with only a year or two experience and a basic certificate. The salaries range between 2,000 and 3,500 US.
But consider the freedoms you'll have to give up for that: There is no alcohol in the desert kingdom. Except, of course, home brewed. If you're inside a compound - not a big deal as long as you're discrete. Some compounds even have bars. But outside, you always run the risk of a visiting MUTAWA. They are an unofficial force of religious police, but who have an extremely wide latitude of power.
There is no trial. No questions. If accused, you are guilty and there will be repercussions.
Then their other ideas about morality can be a serious inhibition to any sort of fun. For example -
You can be put in jail or unceremoniously shipped out of the country for holding hands or kissing in public. Even hugging can get you in trouble. And technically, you aren't even allowed to be with a member of the opposite sex who is not a family member.
You can kiss dating goodbye. Yes. There are parties at the embassies. But that is not quite the same thing as going to a club or relaxing with friends over a beer at the local pub.
And there is no culture. No cinemas. No live theatre or music. No art. No libraries. And precious few bookstores. In fact, other than the Koran, many Saudis don't even read.
And yet - this is also one of the best things about living and working in Saudi. There's very little to spend money on.
That makes saving money easy -- if you're motivated and can entertain yourself. Otherwise - it can be a lonely place.
The economics: I found prices in Saudi to be on par with a the US in most respects. The one big exception is Petrol. About 1 Riyal (US 27 cents) per litre.
And the second best thing about life in Saudi - is that most companies still pay for your initial and annual return flights, housing, medical and all visa expenses. And of course - all salaries are tax free. The only exception is if you have the misfortune to be an American. The US is the only country on the planet which collects tax based on citizenship instead of residence.
All in all - Saudi is a great place to work and save money. It may be a bit short (to put it mildly) on culture, entertainment and lifestyle. As a result - most people head home (where ever that is) when their bucket of money is full.
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