03 December 2010

Is Bali Part of Indonesia?

This was a question put to us by a young tourist from Europe. We won't name the country because we don't want to shame it.

But it does reveal a deeper reality. Because as you may have noticed, many people --myself included-- talk about Bali like it's somehow different from Indonesia. Yet it IS one of the islands of Indonesia.  IS ruled over by the government of idiots in Jakarta. DOES use the Indonesian currency etc....

So why does it seem to be treated so differently - as if it's in a category all by itself?

For one: Bali has carved out a reputation and an identity for itself on the world stage. You'll see 'I Love Bali' tee-shirts everywhere on the island and off. But you'll look long, hard and wide for an 'I Love Indonesia' shirt.

I've just never seen one.

To go a step further. There is no quintessential dish Indonesia is famous for. America has hamburgers. England has Fish n Chips. Germany has Schnitzel and Wurst. Japan has Sushi. Korea has Kimchi. Malaysia has Laksa. Even Singapore has its Chili-crab.

And so it is with the wider country. While Bali figured out long ago it would be a hedonists paradise. Indonesia is still fighting amongst themselves - trying on different identities. I think it is largely split between wannabee Saudi Arabs, and Wannabe American businessmen, with a smaller contingent of Wannabee Chinese.

Second. The Balinese don't give a damn! They are easy going to a fault. As long as they can practice their religion, they don't care what anybody else does. They don't even care if they eat. Just let them pray.

And this is key.

While Bali is Hindu. The rest of Indonesia --except for pockets of Christians in Papua and Sulawesil, and embedded Budhism in the Chinese community-- Indonesia is 86.9 Islam. It is oppressive. It is like living in Riyadh or one of the narrow little 'Bible Belt' towns in the deep South of the US.

Of course, Bali isn't the only beautiful place in Indonesia, but it IS one of the only ones that is open and accepting. Consider this. Aceh's beaches are even more pristine and better for surfing than Bali, but it is illegal to wear a bikini. What a shame and a waste. 

Going from (Islamic) Java to (Hindu) Bali is a lot like driving from a small town in Georgia to South Beach in Miami. Or like crossing the mountains separating the conservative Central Valley in California to the promiscuous coast. Like driving from Riyadh to Bahrain.

Bahrain is the devil's peninsula next to Saudi Arabia. Saudis go there to do such evil and sinful things as going to the cinema, visiting a bar or buying books banned in their country.

In a second - the whole atmosphere changes. You can smell the freedom. Sense it in your bones as every muscle and fiber of your being begins to relax in the easy openness. As you begin anticipating being able to be who you are and enjoy simple -- yet often -- pleasures which are forbidden back home.

And I think that's why even the local Indonesians are discovering Bali. Paradise in their backyard. And for a bargain price.


So, while Bali is politically part of the areas ruled by Jakarta -- part of Indonesia-- in every other way it is as distinct and different as night is to day. And that makes all the difference.

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